WEEK 6: Construction of A Shirt

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Mastering Dart Manipulation and Shirt Construction 


As I continue my journey in fashion design, the intricacies of pattern-making are becoming more fascinating with each class. Our recent lessons focused on shirt construction, specifically manipulating darts and creating a new bodice pattern complete with a placket and collar. It was both a technical challenge and a rewarding experience. This blog will detail what I learned, from the basics of dart manipulation to constructing key elements of a shirt.



One of the first techniques we delved into during this lesson was dart manipulation. For anyone unfamiliar, darts are folds sewn into the fabric to provide shape and contour, particularly in areas like the bust, waist, or shoulders.

We began by discussing different types of darts and their role in garment fitting. Then, we had a test on dart manipulation—a pivotal technique that allows us to move the dart from one location to another without altering the fit of the garment.

For the test, we were tasked with manipulating the shoulder dart and moving it to the underarm. This shift allowed for a cleaner look on the shoulder while still maintaining the same fit around the bust. Here's how the process went:

  1. Marking the Original Dart: The first step was identifying the original shoulder dart and marking its position on the pattern.
  2. Relocating the Dart to the Underarm: We then used slash-and-spread techniques to move the dart to the underarm. This opened up a new seam line that allowed for better flow and fit.
  3. Testing the New Bodice Fit: After the dart was shifted, we tested the new pattern on a bodice to ensure that the fit remained intact.

This exercise was crucial in understanding how darts can be manipulated to not only serve functional purposes but also enhance the overall design aesthetic.

After completing the dart manipulation, it was time to take our newly adjusted bodice pattern and build upon it. The next step was adding a placket and collar, key features that are essential in shirt construction.

  1. Creating the Placket:

    • The placket is the part of the shirt where buttons and buttonholes are placed. It’s a central element that affects both the structure and style of a shirt. I carefully measured and added the placket extension on the center front of the bodice.
    • Constructing the placket was a bit tricky, as it required precision to ensure that the buttonholes and buttons would align perfectly. This part of the shirt construction helped me appreciate how even small details in pattern-making contribute to the final fit and look.

  2. Drafting and Attaching the Collar:

    • The collar was next. I began by drafting the collar stand and the collar itself, making sure to account for the neckline curve.
    • Once the pattern was complete, I carefully cut the collar pieces and sewed them onto the bodice, ensuring a clean and structured finish.
  • Adding the Facing:
    • Facings are used to finish the raw edges of a garment, especially around necklines, armholes, and openings. In this case, we used facings for the neckline and placket to ensure the edges were neatly finished and structured.
    • I drafted the facing pieces to match the shape of the neckline and the placket. After cutting the fabric, I attached them to the garment, folding the facing to the inside and securing it, leaving the outer edges clean and professional.
    • This step really taught me the importance of facings, not just for aesthetic purposes but for durability and finishing. They prevent raw edges from fraying and give the garment a polished look from the inside out.

This part of the lesson was a detailed exercise in precision. Adding a collar and placket not only refined the shirt’s look but also gave me hands-on experience in understanding how these elements affect the overall fit.







This lesson was a great blend of technical skill and creativity. Manipulating darts to create different silhouettes is such an empowering tool for designers, allowing us to adapt garments to various body types while also playing with style. Moreover, adding the placket and collar gave me a deep appreciation for the craft that goes into constructing even the most basic garments.

Moving forward, I feel more confident in my ability to manipulate patterns to achieve the perfect fit, and I can’t wait to apply these techniques to future projects. Shirt construction, with all its details, is no longer as daunting as it once seemed!



Each new lesson brings its own set of challenges, but it’s these challenges that help me grow as a designer. From dart manipulation to constructing shirts with collars and plackets, this class has provided me with invaluable tools that will certainly be useful as I continue my journey in fashion design. Stay tuned for more updates as I explore more advanced pattern-making techniques!


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